Equine Nutrition is a vast subject and can be very confusing!
There are an array of different feeds on the market as well as many different views as to what is right and wrong.
For the barefoot horse nutrition is key to growing a sound, good hoof and for the healthy body and digestive system that is essential for any equine.

Horses have evolved to be continually on the move, foraging constantly and on poor quality fibre based grazing.
In captivity, horses are often given sweet feed - high in sugar, starch, additives, preservatives and sometimes even chemicals, as well as being provided with a pasture that is far too lush for their digestive systems to stay healthy. Horses cannot fully digest the types of carbohydrates that are found in these sweet feeds, so the carbs pass directly through to the hind gut, where they ferment into lactic acid. It is believed that if there is too much acid present in the small intestine then the enzyme process does not funtion properly.
A high sugar/starch feed and/or lush pasture disrupts insulin levels and blood sugar levels, often resulting in laminitis, insulin resistancy, colic, ulcers, full blown founder, weak hooves and lamness (to name but a few)

In my experience as a barefoot trimmer, there are a few things that we as owners can do to help our horses - and their hooves - become healthier again.

STOP feeding

• Cereals - horses are unable to digest these properly. Barley, maize and corn are NOT naturally occuring in a horses diet. To even partially digest these cereals the gut requires a higher level of fluid than is needed for other more natural feedstuff.  It will get that fluid by drawing it in from surrounding tissues which can result in a dehydrated horse. If you need to feed a cereal, the safest and most natural to feed is whole oats (see reasons below)
• Molassed anything - this introduces too much sugar. If you look at the back of the feed bag before you buy it, almost all feeds are molassed - avoid these! Be aware - MOST OF THE FEEDS THAT ARE RECOMMENDED FOR LAMINITICS ARE STILL MOLASSED!!  Even most of the licks on the market are molassed.
• The Lucerne family. This includes alfa, peas and clover. The Lucerne family do not occur in any large quantities naturally in a horses diet, and are far too rich as a feedstuff. Alfa is one of the best sources of calcium, but it is so rich in calcium that it can overload the body with calcium and may hinder the absorption of phosphorus, zinc and other essential minerals. These minerals are vital for a healthy body - and hoof! Pea does not occur naturally in a horses diet, and a natural horse would never access the amounts of clover that occurs in some of our pastures.
• Chemicals, preservatives, additives, mould inhbitors. For the same reason that they are not good for us, they are not good for your horse. Some mould inhibitors put into feeds are also thyroid inhibitors - so if you have a fat horse, he/she is probably going to get even fatter! If your horse has shown sensitivity in the past it may even be an idea to stop feeding regularly produced vegetables and fruit. A non organic carrot is sprayed with chemicals more than 5 times before it is harvested.

Options to feed

• A good vitamin and mineral supplement. Avoid the supplements that are molassed and have derivatives of cerals and lucerne or additives in them.
• Non molassed vitamin and mineral licks are a good option to put in the field or paddock, allowing the horse to ''self medicate''
• If you have an oldie, or a horse that needs a slightly wet feed, use non molassed sugarbeet (it is completely white)but bear in mind that sugarbeet is not organic and often chemically sprayed several times before harvest
• Feeds that are high fibre, non cereal, low sugar, low starch.
• Oats - they have a 90% starch digestibility compared to around 30% starch digestibility of other cereals (i.e other cereals require far more stomach acid to be broken down than oats) Whole oats are preferable to crushed or rolled, as there is a good nutritional fat and fibre value in the husk as well. Oats have a good oil content (7%) and are usually highly appreciated by the horse! Organic whole oats are by far preferable and not expensive.
• Good timothy or meadow mix hay
• Good water.

Other ideas

• When we feed a supplement we tend to mix it into the horses feed, and he eats it by default. Start putting the supplement in a bowl on its own, and see if your horse eats it. If he shows no interest, he does not need the supplement at that time. If you try again a few days later, your horse may lick the bowl clean. Allowing your horse to use his natural, inbuilt self selection skills can usually save you alot of money!
• Hedgerows, verges and country lanes are all good places to hunt for herbs, shrubs, plants and trees that are beneficial to your horse. If your horse has an opportunity to pick at foilage whilst walking to and from his turnout - you may be surprised at what he chooses, and it can even help you understand more about what your horse requires herbally. For example, Meadowsweet has anti inflammatory properties and Comfrey encourages healing of bone and tissue.  The book ''Feeding Herbs to Horses'' by Wendy and Terry Jennings is a good reference when identifying plants and herbs with beneficial properties.

Grazing

• Rich pasture is something that causes most of our horses problems. Without us realising it, our horses may be walking around with low grade laminitis and digestive problems. The natural horse lives on poor grazing whilst on the move, and what is provided for our captive equines is usually far to lush, and far too easily accessible. Excessive grass can create a build up of sugars in the horses system - leading on to laminitis, hoof problems, colic etc.
• Pastures are often even worse when they have been sprayed with chemicals - or even when chemicals have blown over from fields nearby.
• Jaime Jacksons Paddock Paradise concept is an ideal grazing solution for our horses. It allows horses to live in an environment that mimics as close as possible the natural environment horses should be living in. It encourages horses to work for their food whilst stimulating body and mind and increasing overall health. The more natural movement the horse gets, the healthier your horse will be.
• Muzzles and strip grazing can help stop over indulging.
• Stressed/overgrazed grass can be the worst of all but often looks the least rich
• If you have the opportunity to safely turn your horse out in an area that has very little grass do so - I have a client who keeps her horses on an old flat quarry. There is a grassy area, but most of it is stony, rocky terrain. She provides good hay, water and a vitamin and mineral supplement. Here is her blog: www.barefootexperiment.blogspot.com